La dolce far niente, a fabulous Italian saying for just mooching around. But this is far from wasting time. This is the art of doing nothing. In fact, we’re not quite doing nothing. We’re on Lady Pinto with Candida for a boat trip and day out in Antarctica. Or rather at Antarctica, because in Dubai you can spend Australia Day (26 January) celebrating in Antarctica doing a very fabulous brand of Italian nothing. Niente.
Unfortunately today’s type of nothing involves quite a lot, both in planning and execution.
“Candida!” Harley runs straight into her arms giving hugs & kisses and nearly bowls her over in his excitement. He is hoping he’ll be allowed to drive today. I’m at the other end of the walkway watching and hoping both of them don’t end up in the water due to Harley’s enthusiasm. Candida stands up again and I see there is no harm done. In fact, they’re both grinning.
Candida has a genuine passion for boating which is reasonably newly founded. One day not that long ago she decided she would like a boat. So she bought one, got her license and now she goes out whenever she can. Given that she is the only female captain in the Dubai Marina Yacht Club, I think this says a lot about her drive and determination, if not about her love for the sea and perhaps, the speed.
As we arrive, Candida has already begun preparations and is in the middle of hosing the boat down. She was out with friends for New Year but nearly four weeks later, Lady Pinto is covered in Dubai’s dust. The dust that gets into everything and everywhere. I know that she’s probably also had to spend time refueling and last time we were out for UAE National Day, there was a horn that needed fixing. A boat is a lot of work and I’m feeling grateful that we have been invited along again.
I put our bags down, and help Harley on to the boat then stand around, feeling a bit useless, waiting for orders while the hosing continues. Eventually we can dry everything off and arrange the bags, food and drinks into the esky. Candida has arranged bags of ice in addition to everything else. We don our life jackets and get underway. The rally itself departs from out near the Skydive Dubai runway. We are there nice and early and have a while to wait while Dubai Marina Yacht Club get everyone organised and underway. Harley talks Candida into a quick driving lesson whilst we’re waiting which keeps him happy for a while. With Candida as captain and Harley sitting next to her as first mate, there is little for me to do as I sit back and enjoy the ride.
The sun is bright this morning, although the air is still chilly by Dubai standards and I pull my hoodie up and cover my ears. We’ve all had colds the last week and I don’t need or want a second round. There is construction happening around the base of The Palm (again, still) so our course today is set to go around the outside of The Palm, past The Atlantis hotel. I still haven’t been into the hotel myself but I applied for a job there recently and have a little pang, hoping that something comes off. It would be an incredible experience working for a company with such an icon as part of its everyday existence.
It doesn’t take long to get to the World Islands, perhaps about 45 minutes and it’s a pleasant ride. As we arrive, World Islands security guides us in. The staff from Dubai Marina Yacht Club have put a great deal of effort into organising today. There are around 150 boats from various marinas across Dubai and it’s a huge turnout. Special permission was needed and boats were required to be registered with Nakheel prior to today’s event. The yacht club has some shade sails set up and a DJ on the beach and we have been lent some beanbags for the day. Candida guides the boat in to a suitable spot and the anchor is let down.
Harley needs to go to the toilet. Luckily there is one on the boat and we avert a bit of a disaster. We ready bags and things for our tender to the island which comes along but Harley isn’t quite finished and the tender driver says he’ll be back in 15 minutes.
Harley wants to swim. I get him changed and dip his feet in and he decides it’s too cold. A true summer child. He’s happy playing with a pool noodle that Candida has brought along while we continue to ready bags and ourselves. Harley drops the noodle which I am able to reach for. He gets a stern warning and I sit him on the back to do some ‘fishing’. I change into my swimming costume but layer my t-shirt and jumper back on over the top. It has warmed up a little bit, but not quite enough to forego my jumper. And the water is cold.
Harley drops the noodle. I reach out and can’t quite get it. Candida grabs the other noodle and can reach it, just about able to get it back but then it floats just out of reach. We hesitate. I consider throwing Harley in – he could swim to it but the cold water might be too much for him. Candida goes in. The noodle is close but the water is colder and she climbs back out. The marina tender boat will be able to swing past it and we’ll get it then.
No sign of the tender. We watch the noodle drift further away. There are people from other boats that are anchored very close jumping out into waist deep water and wading in, a few that have made the swim and other still, further out, that have their own tenders to row to the island. I consider a swim. I could get the noodle and swim in. But I can’t swim Harley in and there is still the picnic bags. We wait a bit longer. We can still see the noodle and wave at a little tender from one of the bigger boats that row straight past it. Couldn’t they pick it up?
By the time the tender comes back an hour later we have lost sight of the noodle. We do a loop towards the breakwater looking for it but it’s gone. We get dropped off at the beach and walk our things up to one of the large shade tents that have been put up by the Dubai Marina for the day. The music is playing and there are people playing beach volleyball, some on stand up paddle boards and a few in kayaks. People are set up with picnics and smells drift towards me of lunchtime delights cooking on little portable barbecues. We decide we’re hungry.
Now, I haven’t packed particularly well. Candida and I swapped a few hurried emails during the week and told me not to bring too much but I have also been a bit distracted this week with job hunting activities and despite the best of intentions, my lunch provisions are somewhat sub standard. Candida, however, has put a lot more time and effort into her preparations, despite her busy week, and unpacks a very tempting spread. Thank goodness I at least brought a decent bottle of wine.
Lunch is delicious and we settle in for the afternoon. Harley finds a friend and they play nicely, sharing the nerf gun that his friend has brought along. After an hour or so they lose interest and Harley finds some people building a sand castle that he can help out. He fills and empties buckets of water for a while and then comes up the beach with a rake. I send him back to give the rake back. A while later I see him dragging something else around. Other children are out picking things up and building something with rocks. The main thing is that he’s being good.
Candida and I share some wine and conversation. We lay back in our bean bags and enjoy the sun. I still have my jumper on but the weather is pleasant with just a gentle breeze blowing. We can tell that all these people are from Dubai as no one is swimming. I go for a little walk to take some photos and check out the beach. It’s quite rocky and there are a lot of shells. I paddle in the water for a bit and consider a dip. I probably would have if I could walk in slowly but there are lots of rocks and I would have to plunge myself in. I decide against it and take a bit more of a walk, making a note to myself to get some of those beach/water shoes for next time.
After a few hours of lazing around and watching Harley play we check the time. It’s nearly 4 o’clock and time to pack up. I wonder where the day has gone – I could definitely enjoy doing a bit more of nothing for the afternoon. Still, Harley says that he misses daddy and Jasper and asks when we’ll be going. I can see that he’s getting tired.
We pack up and mosey on back to the tender pick up. We get dropped back onto Lady Pinto and Harley goes below deck for a rest as we pull up anchor and get underway. The afternoon sunlight is orange from the haze and although I can see the sun reflecting off some of the downtown Dubai skyline, the view should be much, much clearer.
Harley bounces around below deck for most of the trip back. He’s tired but not tired enough to fall asleep and he’s getting hungry but he’s amused for a while looking out of the port hole and I have few snacks up my sleeve that keep him going for a bit longer.
The trip back is equally enjoyable to the trip out. The sea is calm and we spot people jet skiing and wake boarding on the protected waters of the Gulf. As we round the top of the Palm, all the buildings are glowing orange in the setting sunlight. It’s starting to get a bit cold again but this is an enjoyable time of year and I breathe in the cool salty air, making the most of it. The Atlantis stands proud at the top the of the palm.
Planes are taking off and gulls are flying overhead as we cruise back in towards JBR. Harley is now hungry and still bouncing around below deck. As we pull into berth at the marina, Harley requests a picnic on the boat.
Candida smiles and says she has all night. We lay the lunch leftovers out and Harley eats a good dinner. Candida and I have a pick too and some of the iced tea that I did manage to make the day before. We while away another hour before we’re done.
After a big day of relaxing we’re all tired now. We give the boat a hose down but the big scrub is put off until later. Harley has a second wind and does some hosing and drying, dropping a cloth into the water. The tears begin but he’s been assured it’s okay. We get everything packed away and say our goodbyes with a few tired hugs and kisses from Harley. Candida will likely be back to scrub the boat down properly tomorrow. It’s not just preparation that goes into a day like today, there is often follow up as well. But just like making a good dessert, all those sweet nothings of life and the ability to completely enjoy and savor the day are usually worth it. I hope Candida feels the same way!
Good To Know
You need special permission to visit the World Islands. The day out on Antarctica was arranged by Dubai Marina Yacht Club and the correct documentation and approval was sought beforehand.
Day trips with registered companies are available to Lebanon Island (The Island Dubai) which has a restaurant, lounge, bars, beaches and a pool.
Otherwise check with Nakheel or Emaar for permission to visit prior to departure if you intend to take your own boat.
There are no facilities on Antarctica.
Would I Return?
Yes. This is a lovely family day and a great spot for a picnic with a view of the Dubai skyline on a clear day. The water is clear but the beach and swimming areas are rocky so take appropriate footwear. Be mindful that there are no facilities at all on the island of Antarctica and you need to ensure you take your rubbish with you.
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