Finally! I have now lived in Dubai just shy of a year and this is my first visit to the capital. I am consciously shelving the mosque and the new Louvre in order to do the Corniche and some of the historic sights properly and have been anticipating this since we booked our holiday. Here I come!
We wake on the first day of our cruise to views of Abu Dhabi. After watching the sunrise over the port I can see the Corniche and some of the more unique buildings, all the way along to the Marina Eye (Abu Dhabi’s version of the London Eye). I’m itching to get to breakfast and off the ship and am given leave soon after our meal. My husband has been here before and has elected to spend the day on the ship, with or without the boys, depending on their desires.
I jump in a taxi as the shuttle bus is going to take too long and isn’t really heading where I want to go anyhow. I question the taxi driver about the meter starting at AED20 and am told that port pick ups are special. I’m not entirely sure about this but I let it go this time (although later on in the trip, this episode has laid the foundations for me getting out of taxis where the drivers seem to want to overcharge).
I get dropped off near Marina Mall, not to be confused with Dubai’s Marina Mall. First on my list is the Abu Dhabi Heritage Village. I like to get a sense of the history of a place and this sounds promising. A reconstruction of a traditional oasis, the open air layout houses a compound with souq, mosque, barasti house and Bedouin encampment, including goat hair tents. Craftsmen showcase traditional crafts and display jewellery, traditional clothing, kitchen ware, camel and pearling equipment. Or so I’m told. The whole length of the breakwater is cordoned off, including the Village and the flagpole (another item on my list). Security inform me that it’s due to the New Year celebrations. It will reopen tomorrow. What I have originally taken for the entrance is Bill’s Farm, a restaurant on the waterfront. Strike one.
Okay, slight change of plan but it’s still early and I still have plenty on my list. Certainly enough to fill the day as I never expected to get through everything anyway. I pop over to Marina Mall to use the bathroom and perhaps find a Karak tea. I have a little walk around but it’s still before 10am and the shops are not open yet.
Outside again and I regroup. I have a look at the Eye, it’s not open yet either. Given I have a bit of extra time on my hands I decide to walk to Emirates Palace. I want to check out the Barakat Gallery and the Saadiyat Island Cultural District Exhibition. It’s a beautiful day and I enjoy the walk and the views along 18th Street.
About halfway along 18th Street I crossover to the Emirates Palace side of the road. It’s not as lively but that’s the direction I’m headed and I’m hoping for some good views of the Palace and gardens on approach.
About another half a kilometer along, I’m stopped by security. “This side is closed, you have to walk on the other side”. I turn around somewhat annoyed. This means I have to head back to the lights where I crossed over in the first place, the middle of the road being fenced all along to prevent jaywalking. Perhaps some signage would have prevented this unnecessary kilometer round trip by the time I’m back on track on the other side of the road. Strike two. The day is not going entirely my way.
I get to Corniche Road and admire Etihad Towers up close. The buildings are impressive, entirely modern and today, appear completely empty. Outside the gate to Emirates Palace there are bus loads of tourists and the gates are firmly closed. I go to inquire about the Barakat Gallery and the Saadiyat Island Cultural District Exhibition. I am told “they are not here”. “Where are they?” I ask, fearing I am being misled. “They have moved” comes the reply. Entirely possible. I snap a few shots of the gate from outside, feeling completely deflated.
I reconsider visiting the mosque or the new Louvre although I still have a handicraft centre and the souqs on my list. There is always the Galleria at Al Maryah Island which I hear is worth a visit. I walk a bit along the Corniche to give me time to think. I’ve just about had enough walking and it’s well and truly lunchtime by now so I hail a taxi, deciding to head to the souqs where I should be able to get something to eat as well. The souqs – fish markets, fruit and vegetables, carpet and Iranian (household goods, plants and crafts) are in the Al Mina Port area which suits as the ship is docked near there at Mina Zayed Port. The souqs are not together though, they are separate and spread out, not walk-able between them. I can’t settle on which one. Strike three dawns on me then and I change my mind on the way there and decide to head back to the ship.
Now that I have been here once, I know I’ll be back. I’m looking forward to spending a day discovering the Louvre with a friend. I resolve to stop making excuses and get myself to Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque for a tour and will make time to come back for the Heritage Centre and work out how to check out Emirates Palace without being turned away at the gates.
Right now though, it’s New Year’s Eve and I know that my time is better spent back on the ship with my family. I take my little one for a Venchi ice cream treat and we go bowling on the ship together. We let the boys have burgers as a late afternoon snack – they won’t have dinner with the club until much later. Then they happily head off to the kids’ club while my husband and I get dressed for the celebrations and head off to dinner together. We even have time for an aperitif. Perhaps I’m not out after all.
Good To Know
Barakat Gallery has closed in the UAE. They operate in London, Hong Kong, Seoul and Los Angeles. At the time of publishing, the Barakat website does not reflect this closure.
The Saadiyat Island Cultural District Exhibition is no longer an exhibition but a reality. At least in part. The cultural district is located on Saadiyat Island and comprises of Manarat Al Saadiyat, a contemporary cultural and arts centre which includes the astounding UAE Pavillion building, as well as the new Abu Dhabi Louvre which opened in November 2017. Construction has not yet begun on the proposed Zayed National Museum or the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi.
There is a lot see here so plan your trip to Abu Dhabi carefully to ensure that you have time for it all!
Would I Return?
Yes. Next time I will check my sources and opening hours much more closely. The websites of some of the places I had hoped to visit and relied upon are outdated. It’s best to call in advance to confirm opening times, especially if your itinerary is tight. Of course, perhaps try to avoid New Year’s Eve, despite mine turning out pretty well…
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