The Latin Quarter in Paris is an area that takes in parts of the 5th and 6th Arrondissements on the Left Bank. It is home to several higher learning entities, including the Sorbonne (the University of Paris), as well as lively bistros, shopping and of course the Pantheon.
Today we’ve met up with the Moss family, Jasper’s godparents and their two little ones, Klara and Frankie. The children have had a play in the park at Le Jardin du Luxembourg and we’re planning on walking through the Latin Quarter from Le Jardin du Luxembourg (Luxembourg Gardens) to Jardin des Plantes. We have three adults and four children (1, 3, 5 & 6yrs) so it’s going to take a while. We’re happy to go for a wander though, not knowing how long it will last.
We’ve also had lunch at Le Rostand, on Place Edmond Rostand, just outside Luxembourg Gardens. Kasia & I opted for the Quiche Lorraine, my oldest likes the Croque Monsieurs and the youngest had a ham baguette, listed on the menu as “jambon au torchon” which translates literally as “tea towel ham”.
We have a giggle at this after our friendly waiter fails to explain the term – somethings are supposed to be lost in translation I think. It likely has something to do with how the ham is preserved, I think of ham bags at Christmas time but the moment has passed.
As you’d expect, the quiche is seriously good and although we’d love to kick back with a crepe and a glass of wine, Daniel is back with Frankie, the littlest who has had a nap in his pram and it’s time to make a move. We launch in with a general direction in mind but nothing more. There is mention of a crepe along the way.
The main road from here is Rue Soufflot but we want to take the scenic path and get into the back streets so we approach the Pantheon not really knowing it’s there until it looms before us. It’s a striking building and I’m dying to go in, of course, but we’re just not going to manage it today. We can’t even manage a photo with most of us visible in the shot. Luckily I get one of the Pantheon without us too!
From here we head down Rue Clotilde and onto Rue de l’Estrapade. It’s slow going with a gaggle of children and Frankie wants to walk but it’s so beautiful and Kasia & I have lots of catching up to do as they’re currently living in Poland. We’ve only got today so we’re happy to make it count for quality time.
We wander along the streets of the Latin Quarter, taking lots of photos and trying to keep the children from crying or getting run over.
A bit further along and we come to Place de la Contrescarpe. The perfect place to stop and make my promise of feeding the pigeons come true. Luckily I have had the foresight to stash away the rest of the tea towel ham baguette from lunch. The pigeons love it, Harley has a second helping and it gives Daniel a chance to grab a gelati. I manage to sneak in most of a crepe before the children realise and devour the remainder.
We continue on through the Latin Quarter. There is a relief stop for Klara and the children are starting to tire. We’re close though. I carry Harley for a bit but he’s heavy! An emergency packet of m&ms comes in to play, bribing our way forward towards our destination. The streets are so pretty I could wander here for hours on my own but the children keep us all distracted and it’s time for them to have a break from walking.
We make it to Jardin des Plants and we’re unsure about the museum so we sit and let the children run around the park and enjoy the company while it lasts. As it turns out there is an excellent Grande Galerie de l’Evolution which we pop in to for a bathroom break. Had we discovered this section earlier we most certainly would have gone in to explore.
As it stands though, they have had a run around and it’s getting late. The boys and I still have an hour or so on the metro back to Rue Brancion and I know that it’s going to be a challenge, more so by myself.
Now would be the perfect time of day to grab an apéritif. They do all sorts of pre-dinner drinks here – the perfect time to pause at the end of the day, connect with friends, or your loved ones before dinner and the evening encroach. You’ll see the first signs from about 4pm when people start to wander in and sit, facing the street, with a paper or a cigarette.
From 5pm onward, the bars fill with workers who sit, either by themselves or with a friend or two, for one, maybe two, drinks before dinner. I’m quite partial to a Campari as I like the bitter ones. Then I’d go for a wander and check out what the boulevards of shops have to offer before choosing a quaint Parisienne bistro for a meal and whiling away the evening with wine and conversation.
Instead, we say a teary goodbye to our friends and are on our way. I hope we’ll see them again soon but, until next time, at least we have Paris’ Latin Quater.
Good To Know
The French aperitif is designed to stimulate the appetite and has the added benefit of lifting your mood before dinner. It’s not quite as ritzy as a cocktail but holds it’s own, where wine is often enhanced by a meal.
Try these for you Latin Quarter reminiscent tipple: the Kir, champagne, Pernod (or another anise flavored spirit) or Campari (or Aperol – the bitter choice – technically Italian but very popular in France). Another option is a fortified wine which we (Australians) would generally serve post dinner but is fair game first in France.
Would I Return?
Yes. Paris has an abundance of museums, gardens and entertainment for children. Even the larger museums have children’s sections or can be broken up into ‘bite size’ visits for little ones. Do some research before you leave home to ensure opening times suit your schedule. Some require bookings and in summer there can be long entry queues.