If there’s one thing Italy does well (after gelato), it’s Villas. Villa d’Este was a fantastic example of this, Villa Borghese is another. Whilst the Palazzos and Castellos are interesting and impressive, the villa gives way from the regal, political and military to a more laid back take on Italian lifestyle, architecture and the outdoors, namely a garden. Well, perhaps estate, or in this case, park, are more appropriate descriptions. While the garden of many a villa is a triumph of landscaping, Villa Borghese is more like a rambling park.
It’s our last day in Rome and after a bit of a false start this morning (one tired and cranky child that needs to sleep), I set out this afternoon to check out the Villa which houses a Galleria of the same name. I meander through the gardens, up to the Villa only to find that I am a few minutes too late for the 1pm session. The next session is too late for me as I have promised to be back at the apartment by then. Whilst disappointed I intend to enjoy my last afternoon and set my mind to to enjoying the gardens and heading over to Villa de Medici instead.
The gardens are set in a rambling landscape in the English style. More park than gardens although it is high summer and quite dry, not quite as lush as you might find in England. The area was originally a vineyard which was taken over by Cardinal Scipione Borghese, nephew of Pope Paul V, who began transforming the site around into gardens around 1605. Today the parklands are public and there are plenty of attractions within the grounds. Along with the previously mentioned Galleria (art gallery), there’s the Piazza di Siena (Rome’s equestrian venue); Villa Giulia (which houses an Etruscan museum and originally built as a summer house for Pope Julius III around 1551); the Villa Medici (housing the French Academy in Rome); as well as a theatre; a zoo (Bioparco); and a Zoological Museum.
Since I approached the Galleria along Viale del Museo Borghese from Porta Pinciana (a gate of Rome’s Aurelian Wall), I turn and head west along Via dell’Uccellina towards the Bioparco and then cut through the grass towards Museo Pietro Canonica, past the Globe Theatre (replica of London’s) and Piazza di Siena along Viale Pietro Canonica.
I’m just wandering now, taking it all in, enjoying the walk and the Roman sunshine. I cross over the top of Viale San Paolo del Brasile and continue along Via della Magnolie, being sure to stop and admire the ancient brick walls holding up the overpass.
I head through Piazza Bucharest and pop out to a spectacular view of Casina Valadier on Viale Andamo Mickievicz (although in hindsight I wish I had taken the slight detour to Terraza del Pincio for the views to Piazza del Poppolo). Nevertheless, I continue along Viale della Trinuta dei Monti, arriving at Villa di Medici in time to be told that the last English tour has departed for the day. The next one, I am cheerfully told is at 3pm tomorrow afternoon. “That’s no good”, I explain “I leave in the morning, is there another tour I can join?”. My distress is met with a “no” and even more frustratingly a shrug and I turn away crestfallen, the two remaining items on my wish list out of reach.
I still have some time but no longer have a plan and after the last few hours of walking I’m almost done. I head back to the apartment via the Spanish Steps and try to enjoy my last moments of Rome. I have heard it said that you should always leave something undone so as to have a reason to come back. Well, as if Rome isn’t enough of itself to return to, now I have two additional reasons.
Good To Know
There are some museums and galleries that time their tickets for entry, Galleria Borghese and Villa Medici being two of them. Be sure to check the timetable and book tickets in advance where possible to avoid disappointment.
Would I Return?
Yes. On top of returning to Rome, just because, I now have two specific reasons to go back.
