The blue of the sky and the sea as I emerge from below deck to the dazzling sunshine stuns me momentarily. I blink a few times and Santorini is before me. Can this really be?
The harbour is almost unnoticeable, hidden in plain sight at the bottom of the cliffs as my eyes are drawn upwards into the light. At first the buildings look like a stratum of limestone perched on the cliffs, rather than the whitewashed city I was expecting.
The light is intense and I look around me, the buildings coming into focus and I wonder at the beauty that a volcano, something so destructive from so long ago, can create.
This relatively tiny island in the Southern Aegean Sea is a member of the Cyclades group of islands which are part of Greece. Only about 80km2, the land mass is an incomplete ring only partially engulfing the caldera (volcanic crator) which is open to the sea but forms a protective lagoon. From the main towns of Fira, Oia and Akrotiri which overlook the caldera itself, the land slopes away to form somewhat more accessible resort style beaches including Red Beach (pebbly), Kamari, Perissa and Monolithos. Ammoudi Bay, near Oia isn’t a beach but it’s a great swimming spot off the rocks into the clear water of the bay.
Today we take a boat ride from the Old Port at Fira to Ammodi Bay and then into Oia to take in the sights. It’s hot today and the streets throng with tourists, some coping better with the heat than others. I’m patient waiting with my camera at the ready to get a few shots without too many people but the opportunities for this are few. It doesn’t matter too much, every which way I look the views are incredible and there’s another photo opportunity around each and every corner as we meander along the cobblestones taking in the sights.
We wander around to the Lioyerma Windmill, almost as far as the small paths of Oia will take us and gaze out towards Thirasia. We turn back, but not before eyeing off a nearby swimming pool, the water looks lovely and inviting, but we settle for a small cafe and ice coffee at this point with equally great views.
After a little break and a caffeine hit, we wander some more, checking out the little shops, picking up a few souvenirs and enjoying the art galleries with paintings of the views that are currently sprawled right in front of us. I want to take them all home.
There is a local bus as well as pre paid tourist buses that run between Oia and Fira and we join the queues for the 20 minute drive to Fira. I want to spend a lazy hour or two somewhere picturesque having lunch and a glass of wine first but there isn’t enough time. We drive along the escarpment overlooking the lower parts of the island and I couldn’t have been more surprised by the landscape, in total contrast to the tiny town of Oia clinging to the rocks.
Off the bus and we’re given vague directions from the side of the road – straight ahead, turn left and you’ll see the Cathedral. Given that getting lost is kind of the point, it doesn’t seem to matter all that much. Sure enough though, we follow our noses and soon enough we’re back in narrow cobbled streets with shops and restaurants and people everywhere. I peek in doorways, around corners and into dark, air-conditioned shops, there is so much to see, so much to take in.
Fira has a different feel to Oia and I sense it immediately. It’s busier here and even though it’s lunchtime and the cafes and restaurants seem to be full, there are more shops and eateries around each corner. We stop in at a roof top cafe for a cold drink, I try an ouzo, it’s cold and strong and I wonder whether I’ll make it down the donkey steps back to the Old Port afterwards.
We explore some more – little shops and cafes, more photos. I browse souvenirs and my husband eyes off the enormous scoops of gelatos on offer. We walk past the queue to the cable car that takes passengers down to the port and it’s long. It’s also hot and my feet are a bit sore. I don’t want to wait in line though. We decide to walk the 600 steps down to the Old Port rather than waiting for the cable car. We begin the descent and the steps are steep and slippery. As we pass the donkeys lined up to take passengers, we run into some friends from the boat and I change my mind and decide to take a ride.
The ride is terrifying. The donkeys seem to know what they’re doing and are eager to be off but no-one else is too sure. We, at least, have someone leading our 4 strong donkey train. Some of the people ascending seem to have been left to their own devices. It’s a good thing too as one of the men in front of me almost falls off as his saddle slips to the side and we make a quick stop to fix the situation. I wonder what would have happened if the young Greek guy leading us wasn’t there to stop the donkeys. I dismiss all thoughts of photos as we continue the descent, hanging on for dear life seems more of a priority right now. The 7 year old boy behind me calling out that he’s scared and wants to get off doesn’t help my nerves so I assure him, very confidently, that he’s fine, “just hold on and lean back, we’ll be there soon”. I just need to listen to my own advice.
All this takes way longer than walking down and my husband has disappeared by the time I finish my ride and my shaky legs recover enough to navigate the last few steps to the bottom of the cliff. I find him contemplating a swim and it seems like a great idea, the water looks cool and inviting and he dives in while I try to change into my togs with some amount modesty. Just as I get my togs on we get yelled at by one of the boat men that the Coast Guard don’t allow swimming here. There’s no signs and we’re in an area behind some buoys but as annoying as this is, we don’t want to cause trouble with the locals and so he hops out, all refreshed while I sulk a little that I didn’t go in first.
Soon we’re back on the tender watching Santorini fade behind us and the whitewashed buildings and blue domes seem to melt back into the top layer of the cliffs again. My grin doesn’t fade though and I’m still smiling as we have dinner and watch the sun and the last of the island disappear behind us.
Good To Know
We visited Santorini on a cruise with NCL (Norwegian Cruise Lines). This is a tender port which means that the cruise boat docks in the caldera/lagoon from where it’s about a 10 minute tender boat ride from the cruise ship into the Old Port at Fira. If you are on a cruise, be ready to go early and get in line for the first tender boats to depart. The process is as efficient as it can be but there are only so many tender boats and if you want to make the most of your day, be sure to be on one of the earliest.
From the Old Port at Fira, rather than going straight into town, we opted to take a boat directly to Oia and then catch the bus back to Fira later in the day. This turned out to be a good plan and worked in well with what we wanted to see. However, a word of warning – the boat tour operators wait to fill the boat before it departs. We waited a good 30 minutes on the ferry boat in Fira Old Port before it even left for Oia. This was not explained or communicated when we made the decision and bought our tickets – we were initially told “about 10 minutes”. I found this frustrating as, in addition to another 30 minute wait for a bus up to Oia from Ammoudi Bay (again with no communication as to what the delay might have been), this was certainly a frustrating way to begin a day of sightseeing. That time could have been much better spent, even if only exploring the little port area, if these delays had been effectively communicated. Perhaps some things are just lost in translation.
Would I Return?
Yes!
Do some research and pick suitable accommodation if you plan to stay here. While the sights and streets of Oia and Fira are truly stunning, this wouldn’t make an ideal family holiday. If you’re after the beach, opt for one of the beach towns/resorts and make your way up to Oia and/or Fira as a day trip or for a special dinner. Be sure to stay for sunset.
Alternatively, there are many other wonderful Greek isles to explore: Mykonos, Chania, Rhodes.