Bracciano

Benvenuto Bracciano!  It’s been a bit of a long day so far.  We have been up since 2am and didn’t get much sleep before that with last minute packing, not to mention the excitement.  Somewhere en route mid air over Diyarbakir, heading towards Ankara, I have a major pinch-me moment.  We’re on our way and it’s finally happening.  I can hardly contain myself.

Thankfully, for now at least, the boys are happily contained, the in flight entertainment is working its magic.

There are a few logistical errors on the way.  I should have booked a transfer from Fiumicino Airport.  It didn’t seem like such a big deal (45 mins).  In my book that’s not ridiculous, but no one wants to go there.  It’s out of metropolitaion Rome so the taxis won’t take us, the local bus has left for the day already and the only other option is to take the train into Rome and then change for another train from Rome that stops at Bracciano.  With a minimum transfer time of 2 hours I don’t think it’s possible.  Jason is already pushing a trolley piled high with luggage while I carry Harley through the airport.  Jasper is still on his feet but he’s not going to last much longer and the two of us can’t carry everything and the kids between us.  We negotiate a transfer and 100 Euros and 45 minutes with a very rude driver later I am transported.

On first impressions, Bracciano is everything I had dreamed it would be – cute, quiant and as we check into our hotel at Hotel EcoAlbergo in Piazza Guiseppe Mazzini, I throw open the shutters of our room and can practically touch the castello (castle) that presides over the town.  Magical.

The boys fell asleep in the car and we put them to bed for a little while.  We have a little rest ourselves but I can’t sleep, I’m practically jumping out of my skin to go exploring.

After a nap we take a walk around the town with promise of gelato.  We find some and sit in the main square of Bracciano – Piazza IV Novembre, for a while while the boys run around and chase pigeons.  Then we need some dinner and head back to Piazza Guiseppe Mazzini for something to eat at Trattoria del Castello.  I order a melanzane ravioli and a vino rosso and we set the boys up with the iPad so that we can take a moment to soak it all in – the Piazza, the atmosphere, the Castello presiding over everyone, the excellent food and the comfort of a glass of wine in my hands at a local restaurant for  the very decent price of 5 Euros.

Later, once the boys are in bed, Jason and I head out for a drink in the Piazza and some (more) gelato.  There weren’t many people around earlier but now the Piazza is buzzing.  Afterwards he goes back to the room, he’s tired and someone needs to stay close to the boys.   I go for a little wander and looking up at the castle I feel like I’m in a dream, another pinch me moment is at hand.  It’s just so beautiful that I want to cry!  I think the fact that it’s a balmy summer night and people are walking the streets everywhere helps.  I bet it’s just as beautiful, but somewhat less enjoyable, when it’s the middle of winter and rather than wanting to linger in the Piazza with gelato, everyone is cuddled up somewhere with a big bowl of warm pasta and a glass of red.  Actually, winter doesn’t sound too bad either.

By the time I get back to the room and get ready for bed, I’m tired.  I can’t help myself though and I lean out of the window for one more glimpse of the buzzing Piazza down below and the castle lit up in the late summer twilight glow before fatigue grabs a hold of me and I succumb to sleep for the night.

The next morning the boys are allowed some screen time while we rouse ourselves from sleep.  I’m not keen to dally too long though and we get up and get ourselves organised.  I have a big agenda for us today.  There is so much to explore!  The first adventure is breakfast – cappuccinos for us, juice for the boys and croissants all round.  Then we set off.

First stop is a little church (I’m mad for churches) and this one, Chiesa Di. S. Maria Novella is charming although not really a tourist attraction.  I have my sights set firmly on Castello Odescalchi for the morning but it’s still a bit early by Italian standards and it’s not open yet.  So we wander around the town for a little bit first, getting our bearings and enjoying the morning.  There is time to stop in to a little corner store for some bread (a croissant won’t keep any of us going for very long) and we find a playground, just across from the Post Office on Via Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour.  We have a play and climb a tree and then it’s time to hit the Castle.

We make our way up the hill (driveway) and are rewarded at the top with sweeping views over Largo di Bracciano (Lake Bracciano).  The castle itself, Castello Odescalchi, has a somewhat unremarkable entrance as far as castles go.  Despite its commanding position in town at the top of the hill, once we’re at the entrance, which is around the back of the Piazza, it seems rather undistinguished.  Luckily I am proven wrong and as soon as we are through the entrance gate and courtyard, we duck under a covered walkway and are rewarded with sprawling views of Largo di Bracciano and the magnificent structure before us.  It’s hard not to be impressed and we haven’t even stepped inside yet.

Once we’re inside I quickly fall behind Jason and the boys.  I linger in the library and the chapel, what would have once been the reception rooms and the bedchamber of the Duke.  I make my way along and around and then up a steep spiral staircase to the top floor with even more treasures including an armory room.  Down to a courtyard, up to the ramparts and down again to the kitchen including a well in the kitchen courtyard.

Both the castle and the views are breathtaking.  Reluctantly (on my part) we move on.  It’s lunchtime and we take the short walk back through town to a the cathedral that I can hear the bells tolling from to mark each hour.pizza restaurant that we spotted next to the park.  The boys have a pizza and there is a more appealing buffet for us.  While small, the buffet offers some tempting antipasti and salads as well as pizza, of course.  I add a glass of house wine to the order for good measure. Perche non?

After lunch, some gelato is in order before we decide the boys need a rest and take them back to the hotel for a siesta which Jason succumbs to as well. I am not satisfied with sleeping the day away and set out to inspect some more of the old town as well as the Cathedral that I can heard bells marking each hour throughout the night. They are much less noticeable, though still present, throughout the day.

The Cathedral, Duomo Di Santo Stephano, is quite literally just on the other side of the castle.   The steep steps and plain facade make it seem rather aloof from the enchanting streets below and the castle presiding above.

I can’t get in.  It’s either closed or the entrance is cunningly hidden.  There are no signs, the door sits firmly locked (a few rattles prove it) and there is not a soul around, bar some small children playing on the street below, to ask.  The children look at me wide eyed with non comprehension of what I’m asking and then continue their game, unconcerned.

After a cirmunnavigation of the adjoining street I decide not to linger and continue on my way.  The old town isn’t just charming and quaint, it is like taking a walk through living, breathing history.  This isn’t a rebuilt, remodeled, renovated and redecorated town aimed at tourists. Here, the walls are crumbling, the electric wires and pipes have arrived centuries after the builders left and snake in and around makeshift access.  Tiny window sashes are thrown open in the summer heat and either do their best to catch the breeze or have fans whirring inside them.  The odd window has an ancient looking air conditioner hanging out of it.  Not as ancient, however, as the window it inhabits.

I wander along, around and through cobbled streets and lane ways, past crooked steps overflowing with pots of summer flowers.  I catch glimpses of old ladies taking tea in front of their fans, men conversing in front of open doors and two neighbors holding an animated discussion across the street, both perched a floor above the cobbles on their tiny wrought iron clad balconies. The balconies overflow with pots of summer flowers.

I pop out at La Sentinella and sit for a while watching the boats on the lake and waiters at the restaurant on the corner setting up tables & chairs under a tree at the mouth of the lookout.  I read the plaques and take in the views some more before following Via del Fossato, along with a couple of dog legs back towards Piazza Mazzini.  I u-turn through slightly less picturesque streets and come out at Piazzale Carlo Cattaneo, a rather glamorous sounding name for a street ending in a car park.  It does however have million dollar view back towards the cascading facade of the old town, like a layer cake, topped with its own castello perched proudly on top.

I don’t need to check the time, I know I’ve been caught up in the moment of exploration and it’s time to head back and see how they’re going.  The afternoon is taken up with a walk mirroring my siesta stroll. I’m glad to do it again although we skip the views from the car park and stop instead for an early dinner along Via Fossato at a very tempting looking restaurant called  along Via Arrazziara.  It’s delightful, it’s delicious, it’s delovely.  Antipasti and pizza, pasta and vino rosso. How the Italians pull off such simple food as being so delicious, it seems like the perfect world order on a plate.

After dinner we head back to the hotel and put the boys to bed. Thanks to a perfectly placed baby monitor on a window sill we’re able to head two floors down and sit under said window at Pane e Olio.  I indulge in lemoncello and order a tiramisu Classico whilst Jase opts for the “our crumble” which comes with a suitably Italian twist, a pistachio and filo encrusted creamy delight.  No bread or oil needed!

We sit and soak in the atmosphere of Bracciano under the light of the moon and the romantically lit Castello.  The night is suitably balmy again and I could sit and drink it in all night, along with the lemoncello.  Sleep calls once again though and I can’t help leaning out the window before I call it a night. One more pinch me moment as I say goodnight to my view of this moon drenched enchanting piccolo cittadina.

Would I Return?

Yes.  Enchantment awaits in Bracciano.