The incredible Renaissance castle, Castello Odescalchi, sits in the heart of Bracciano and has borne witness to centuries of change. As we arrive in Bracciano on the first leg of our Summer Holidays, it greets us, presiding over the piazza as we unload our bags, the boys too tired to notice, me bewitched and speechless at the sight. It is every bit the enchanting Italian village that I had hoped.
The next day, refreshed and re-energised, post espresso and croissants for breakfast, we visit. Built in four stages, it began as a Middle Ages fortress (around 1200) during the time of Vico, the administrator of the region of Tuscia (between Rome and Viterbo). Later the castle passed to the Orsini family during which time it was enlarged and renovated (1470-1496), the architecture and decoration of which was overseen by many famous architects and artists of the time including Giovannino de Dolci (the architect who designed the Sistine Chapel), Francesco di Giorgio Martini and Antoniazzo Romano.
During the same time the castle was being built, the Orsini family were also building and restoring many important buildings in Rome (including Campo dei Fiori) and were familiar with many others (Palazzo Venezia in Rome, Castel dell’Ovo in Naples and Palazzo Medici in Florence) and the families who had commissioned them. Castello Odescalchi became a symbol of the family’s growing wealth and military power and when Paolo Giordano Orsini married Isabella de Medici (1558) and Bracciano subsequently became a Duchy (1560), the first Duke turned the fortress into his aristocratic palace. At this time yet another renovation was undertaken.
During the late 17th Century the Orsinis were forced to sell the castle and it became owned by the Odescalchis, during the Papacy of Pope Innocent XI. A fourth renovation took place in the second half of the nineteeth century and the castle eventually opened as a public museum in 1952.
Our tour really begins with views of the imposing castle from afar. We have been lucky enough to stay in Hotel Ecoalbergo, right next to the Castello in Piazza Guiseppe Mazzini. The Piazza and the Castello really being the heart of Bracciano. As we enter the grounds from the adjacent drive which leads up the hill behind the Piazza, the views of the castle give way to sweeping views of the lake. But as we enter through the Tower of Saint James, through the courtyard and under the covered walkway, the castle comes into view, looming above us again and we are rewarded with even more sweeping views of Largo di Bracciano.
As we enter a steep but rather unremarkable staircase from the outside and up into the Castello, the first of the rooms unfold in front of our eyes in all their splendor.
The room that now appears as a library is named Sala Papalina (the Pope’s room although a literal translation of Papalina is ‘skullcap’). Named so as Papa Sisto IV della Rovere (Pope Sixtus IV) spent time here during an escape from the plague in Rome (1478 – 1481), possibly while the castle was still under construction.
The ceiling is decorated in frescoes and grotesques (a type of art where painted figures are given strange caricatured expressions), including some zodiac signs, in pure gold. These are by Taddeo and Frederico Zuccari.
On to the next room named for King Umberto I who stayed here for about two months whilst visiting his military employed son in Bracciano. As the furniture is 17th Century Venetian style I secretly hope they managed a bigger bed for the King.
By now Jason and the boys have already skipped on ahead of me so I make the most of the time to take it all in and, most importantly, read all the history.
The Sala del Trittico (triptych room) takes its name from the 14th Century three paneled (triptych) painting from the Umbrian School. Triptyches traditionally hung over an alter and the two side panels fold in to protect the main picture. Hence the side panels inevitably being decorated on the back as well as these would have been visible when the triptych was closed, however the back panels contain less important subjects. This one depicts the Annunciation of the Virgin (14th Century) while the main panel represents the Crucifixion (16-17th Century).
The next room along – they are all linked and roll out one by one in a big long row taking up the lake facing side of the castle – is named for its frescoes after Pisanello (Antonio di Puccio Pisano, c. 1395 – c. 1455) although the frescoes are, in fact, incorrectly attributed to him. The frescoes depict elegant women undertaking games and pass times of the court including archery, dancing, fishing, hunting, playing board games or musical instruments and bathing. The figures are mysterious in the world of art in that the style does not lead to attribution of a particular artist and so they are also, apparently, difficult to date. I give them due admiration anyway.
The other thing I pause to give due admiration is more sweeping views of the lake. From these first floor rooms they are plentiful although you do have to step up to the window to appreciate them. I make my way into the Hall of the Caesars, taking its name from the twelve busts of Roman Emperors along the walls but of more interest to me is the huge fresco that dominates the room. At almost forty square meters, this fresco by Antoniazzo Romano was originally outside. It has been restored and placed inside for preservation purposes. The left part of the fresco (pictured below) depicts Gentil Vriginio Orsini, Captain of the Aragonese militia in Naples (1489), mounted on a white horse at the head of a parade of horse and infantrymen. The painting pays tribute to the power of the family that controlled the land between Bracciano and Rome, with the landscape of Bracciano also being represented in the piece. It is a little faded but still a striking scene and a striking size.
I pay some attention to the ceiling in the hall also. It firstly appears as tiles but is actually small patterned paintings repeated and may actually be parts of the coats of arms of the various families that the Orsinis had now married into.
Now I have to admit that I’m a fan of symmetry and coats of arms. This ceiling is practically perfect! Perhaps a little busy to gaze up to in the middle of the night but certainly enough to keep someone waiting for an audience with nobility entertained for a while, I would think.
The rooms continue on but I have now received a re-visit from the boys who have come back through the top floor, wondering where I am. The weapons room is pretty astounding and gives an idea of the reason the castle was built in the first place. These castles are not just lovely, big homes, solidly established for defense as a primary concern, the weaponry pierces my romantic notions of these times, despite the fancy clothes that they might have been painted in for posterity.
Painting
Now I am well and truly being hurried along, having lingered soaking up all the history and art. We emerge onto the ramparts with yet more sweeping views of the lake and surrounds. The bells of Santo Stephano toll loudly.
On the climb back down from the turrets there is a green inner courtyard. It’s hard to imagine what use this little space was, perhaps, like so many other things in a castle this size, it is merely the result of expansion without proper planning. The kitchen courtyard, however, is a vast space complete with a well. I can imagine this full of chickens and women cleaning, washing and cooking food.
Just inside a small door on the left is a large kitchen. It would have been bustling trying to keep up with feeding a castle this large full of people. The kitchen itself displays cabinets and cooking utensils. It would have been a thankless task being stuck in here all day only to get up the next day and start all over again. I feel a pang of regret for my beautiful Brisbane kitchen and the many meals I made there. Thank goodness my stove was gas!
The lovely staircase in the Court of Honor descends from the apartments above. It’s closed off but was clearly the most direct route from kitchen and courtyard to the rooms where the nobility resided.
Now it’s getting hot and the children are getting tired and hungry. With another pang of regret we head back out past the views of the lake and down into town for some lunch. No noble castle feasts for us but at least I don’t have to slave away in the kitchen making lunch today.
Good To Know
The historical dates, names and other information in this post have been researched by the author with reference to Wikipaedia, the Castle’s website and the visitor guide/pamphlet obtained during the visit to the castle. The castle is also available to host weddings and other special events (and indeed was the venue for Tom Cruise and Katy Holmes’ wedding).
Would I Return
Yes. And if I had my time again, I’d like to get married here too!
