We touch down in Queenstown and it’s snowing.
“It’s summer!” I remark to my friend in disbelief. Three hours ago we left Brisbane and it was 36 degrees Celsius. We disembark and Queenstown is, literally, freezing. It’s the beginning of February and my friend and I have escaped Brisbane summer as well as our families for a long weekend break. Our husbands are home with 5 children between them. Given that we, and they, are next door neighbours we’re fairly confident that the children (and the husbands) will be fine together for the weekend – it’s like a mini break for them too with us away, right?
This has been a long time coming. We often discuss it over a glass of wine in my neighbour’s backyard while the kids are in the cubby house or imagine ourselves taking a swim in a divine hotel pool without being half drowned as we’re being half downed by our kids in my backyard pool. One night while we were catching up – kids finally in bed, us finally in our pjs – we see an advertisement for cheap flights and book it in on the spot.
Two months later, here we are.
We are through customs and get our bags, there are taxis waiting and we hop in one and in 20 minutes we’re checking into our hotel, St Moritz. It’s nice with a cosy fire in the lobby and a restaurant that looks out to the lake. Our twin room has lovely big beds, a nice bathroom and great views as well. We unpack and as excited as we are to be here, we decide to have a cup of tea and then take a bit of a nap. After all, we are two mums that don’t get much peace & quiet, let alone sleep and we were up at 2am for our flight from the Gold Coast.
Feeling somewhat refreshed a couple of hours later, we decide to head out and explore. We take a walk around town and the air is cold and crisp. I wonder if I have packed enough winter clothes! We wander down to the lake and into town past shops, pubs and restaurants.
Jackie comes skiing here and has been a few times and she has a burger joint that she’s heard of and is keen to try. We wander around getting our bearings and find Fergburger (42 Shotover Street) just in time for an early dinner. Despite the hour there is a queue and we wait eagerly for a table and then expectantly for our burgers. I eye off a few around me and wonder if I’ve made the right choice.
Turns out I have. My Chief Wiggam – slow roasted New Zealand pork belly, lettuce, tomato, red onion with a hash brown, aioli and apricot seeded mustard – is a sensation. The beer is cold, the chips are hot. Delicious.
Satisfied we head next door to a little supermarket and bottle shop for a few supplies and then back to the hotel as it’s getting dark and we’re tired again. Tomorrow is going to be an exciting day as we’re off to Milford Sound (see separate post) and have to be up early.
The alarm goes off and it’s still dark. We drag ourselves out of bed, glad that we only managed one beer last night, get dressed and gather our things. We have breakfast and the day is sunny. We’re excited. Our tour picks us up and drops us into town and we wait for the bus, unsure as to exactly what’s happening. After a while someone arrives and takes control and the bus finally shows up and we’re on our way.
A short stop in Te Anu and another stop at The Chasm, a viewing bridge before the steep descent into Milford Sound. We board our boat and sit back and have some lunch. My camera goes almost non stop but Jackie isn’t feeling too well. We cruise to the mouth of the fiord and back, all the time looking up, up, up the steep sides of the fiord to the snow on top.
At the end of our tour we have elected to fly back to Queenstown and it’s simply breathtaking.
Later that afternoon, we head back down to town and sit at The Watershed for a warming glass of red before wandering round and getting a bite to eat at the bistro.
The next day we allow ourselves a sleep in and a leisurely breakfast at the hotel. It’s easy to linger, the breakfast buffet is excellent and I work my way through three courses – bacon & eggs, fruit and then a pastry with my coffee.
Jackie & I set out on foot, down to the pier which has weekend markets in full swing. We wander round the markets and then further around the bay to the Queenstown Gardens.
After the last couple of days it’s very pleasant out in the sun. I had hoped for a swim in the lake and there are a few people paddling about but on second thoughts I decide to leave it to the ducks. There’s no way I’m going in. After all, it was snowing yesterday morning and it’s still visible up there on the peaks.
We make our way around to the Gardens where paths snake through the trees. There are wonderful views of the lake and lots of people are out enjoying the sunny day. The wind picks up a bit as we come round the point to the Frankston Arm but it’s still beautiful and we’re protected from the wind again as we cut across the peninsula and back to town.
We stop in at Vudu Cafe and drink an excellent coffee and then head on over to the gondola which takes us up to the Skyline viewing platform. It’s even more spectacular from up here. The lake, the mountains, the snow and the town sprawl around us and we gaze around, amazed by it all. It really is breathtaking.
We take our time at the top and wander round enjoying the views and the freedom of just being here. We check out the small exhibit and catch the gondola back down, watching a few dare devils do the bungy jumping as we go. Not for me, I’m too relaxed to ruin it now.
We go back to the hotel and change for dinner. A relaxed meal by the fire at the bistro and then a quick ice cream before returning to the hotel. Tomorrow we’re on a wine tour so we relax with a G&T or two before turning in for the night. Bliss.
Would I Return?
Yes. Next time for skiing.
There is also a cruise that you can do on Lake Wakatipu on the TSS Earnslaw which is both enjoyable and informative. As we had both done the tour before and we were a bit tight for time we opted out this time around. It’s an iconic Queenstown tour though and worth a trip if you have time.