Tokyo in 12 hours! Not ideal, but it’s all I have. I’m on a stopover on the way home and have been awake for 24 hours already, having left the UK yesterday and now landed in Tokyo early this morning with a mere twelve hours to explore. So I have to hone my sightseeing desires.
I decide to head to Ueno, a district of Tokyo and home to some of the city’s cultural delights including a trifecta of National Museums – the Tokyo National Museum, the National Museum of Nature and Science and the National Museum of Western Art. Given the short timeframe and the nature of the trip, however, I decide to head to Ueno Park to stretch my legs and take in some of the atmosphere before the next flight home.
It has taken me longer than anticipated to get through the airport but eventually I’m on the train into the city. I was hoping for an early spring to catch a glimpse of the famed cherry blossoms but alas, the day is still cold and wet. Nevertheless, as I enter the park, I am struck by the gates and all the bustle – around the gates, in the markets and at the temple.
Ueno Tōshō-gū Shrine
The Ueno Tōshō-gū Shrine is a shinto shrine and one of the most important shrines in Japan as the first Shōgun of the Tokugawa Shogunate, Tokugawa Ieyasu (1542 – 1616), the founder of Edo Shogunate was enshrined here in 1651. Since then it is said that the shrine has undergone partial rebuilds up to 16 times although it has been largely preserved throughout a history of earthquakes, fires and wars.
A shinto shrine is one that houses the spirits of kami (sprits, phenomena or holy powers) for safekeeping of the sacred thing, rather than worship specifically.
The architecture of the shrine is characterised by its karamon (Chinese gate) with curved gable (karahafu). The pillars are decorated with two carved dragons, Noboriryu (Ascending Dragon) and Kudariryu (Descending Dragon) who are said to go to the nearby pond to drink water each night.
The hoden (main building of the shrine) contains a worship hall and and offertory hall surrounded by corridors on three sides.
Uneo Great Buddha and Pagodas
“Daibutsu yama” or Great Buddha Hill also presides here. In 1631 during the Edo period (1603 – 1868), the feudal lord, Hori Nayori, created a 2.8m buddha although it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1647. The second buddha, which sat at 3.6m was created by monk, Jyoun, who collected donations from Edo’s citizens for the purpose.
The face of the second buddha fell off during an earthquake in 1923 and was preserved at the Kanei-ji Temple. The body was acquired by the government to make weapons during WWII.
The current pagoda was built in 1972 and buddha’s face was installed in relief at the site.
After a walk through some of the picturesque gardens and a chance to see some of the sights and stroll through the markets I’m afraid that I’m feeling too exhausted for much else. Cutting my time short I head back to the airport and while the 12 hours seemed all too short, it was also too long whilst I’m longing for home.
Good To Know
The Ueno Tōshō-gūshrine has since been restored. Entrance to the shrine is free, however, a small fee can be paid to see the back of the karamon and get closer to the hoden (although entry into the hall is not allowed). A small fee is also charged for entry to the peony garden (limited season).
Would I Return?
Yes. Hopefully during cherry blossom season and for more than 12 hours!
