What a whirlwind of a weekend in Brugge (Bruges), it went by in a blur. And not just because of the speed of the Eurostar, the upside of which you can do Brugge in a weekend. But going fast can also be a downside!
Still, on every trip, fast or slow, there are some must dos. Here is the countdown for Brugge:
5. Drink Beer
Diana & I are finally on our way after picking our tickets up at the station. After busy weeks for both of us, we spend the trip de-stressing – catching up over a few drinks and a chat, a normal Friday night really, except we are on a train. We do need to change trains in Brussels but arrive at our hotel around 11pm. Taking into account the loss of an hour due to the time difference, this isn’t too bad. I could, theoretically of course, just be stumbling home from the pub now anyway. The downtime on the train has given us a chance to revive our energy and enthusiasm, so we head into the main square for a beer (as you do).
Although it is pretty quiet at this time of night, the Australian in me is still surprised to see that anything is open. We find a nice spot at a quiet pub in front of an open fire and sit to chat some more over a couple of beers. But what to choose? I have never seen so many beers and had so many choices. Not being much of a beer drinker, it seems I have a lot to learn! Tonight we choose a Zots beer and after getting a bit carried away (with the talking, not the beer) we finally get to bed around 2am.
The next day after a suitably non-beery breakfast of coffee and almond croissants and some sightseeing we head to the Bruges Beer Experience.
This is part experience, part museum and covers some background information about Belgium’s rich beer heritage as well as discussing beer types, the brewing process and food pairing. The hour long tour is finished with a tasting for which we sit in a beer hall and well, drink some more beer.
Tonight however, armed with a little more knowledge about how beers are made and what I prefer, I expand my repertoire at dinner time over moules et frittes and try a Hoegaarden followed by a cherry beer. I enjoy both of them and conclude that beer is definitely growing on me.
4. Visit a Church
Okay so I’m a die hard church fan. Not only do churches provide a welcome pause for quiet contemplation during the madness of sightseeing (and life in general!) but they always tell you something about where you are.
You don’t have to look too closely at a church to notice the architecture (and try to guess which century it was built in). Are the windows, sculptures and paintings opulent or plain? What type of ceiling does it have and are there any vaults in the floors? What does all this tell you about the town that you are visiting, the culture of the people and the country that you are in?
We visit the Church of Our Lady which houses Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child (1501 – 1504, 2m high), known as the Madonna of Bruges, similar to and completed only shortly after, the much more famous Pieta. The sculpture is notable not only because of Michelangelo’s exquisite work but because it is the only piece that left Italy during his lifetime. It is believed to have been commissioned as an altar piece but the interesting piece of it’s history lies in the times it has been removed from Belgium. Firstly during the French Revolutionary Wars when it was returned after Napoleon’s final defeat at Waterloo (1815) and secondly during WWII when it was smuggled out in a Red Cross truck wrapped in a mattress and later discovered in an Austrian salt mine1.
The church itself is quoted as being “…a monument to the wealth, sophistication, taste, and devotion of this most Catholic city, whose history and faith stand today celebrated in this wonderful building.”2
It is not only the churches that provide examples of the exquisite architecture and glimpses into the history of this town. The Belfry and Guild Hall are other worthy architectural highlights.
The Belfry is a medieval bell tower which previously housed the town’s treasury and municipal archives. Belfries were also used as watchtowers for fires and other danges, such as invasions. Today the tower is a symbol of Brugge and, despite the chilly wind, is also a very useful spot to snap your own postcard worthy pictures of the city.
The Guild Hall (City Hall) is also notable as one of the oldest in the region. It is beautiful both inside and out, another tribute to the wealth and sophistication of Brugge’s Golden Age (12th – 15th Centuries) when the city served as a major European trade hub bringing both economic and political power. Although the building serves as a town or city hall the term Guild Hall makes reference to the merchant guilds (organisations or brotherhoods) popular during Europe’s medieval era that acted as a governing body largely controlling the trade of a specific region or type of good (i.e wool).
The grandeur of this Gothic building once again reflects the wealth of the population at the time it was built (1376 – 1421).
3. Relax in the Parks
In between taking in the architecture of churches, museums and other significant buildings, it is important to take time to enjoy the atmosphere of the city and, apart from the sheer romance of all those cobbled streets, the parks are a wonderful place to do this.
If you have any room left after meals consisting of huge pans of moules et frittes (mussels and French fries, a Belgian specialty) then settle down with some chocolates (*spoiler alert* see #1) or a hot sweet crepe and watch the people, swans and boats drift by. While the weather is still crisp there is nothing like a blue sky and the sight of daffodils out in the lawns of the Begijnhof, to hint at the promise of Spring.
The Begijnhof, a housing complex for religious lay women (although it has been a Benedictine convent since 1927), is the perfect spot to take a rest from the cobblestones or just wander around in the fresh air.
2. Ride the Canals
Another opportunity for a rest while soaking in the atmosphere is a canal ride. Although the township originated on the banks of the Reie River, the development of the canals connected the township to the all important port on the North Sea (Zeebrugge). The port and their canal connected city were at the cross roads of the northern Hanseatic League and the southern trading routes. Often referred to as the Venice of the North (along with St. Petersburg, Amsterdam and Copenhagen, among others).
Of course today their primary purpose is aesthetics and tourism and you can find landing spots around the old town for just that purpose – to explore Bruges by boat.
Although it really is hard to choose, Rozenhoedkaai and Groenerei are two of the most picturesque spots on or along the canals. Rozenhoedkaai is just a hop, skip and a jump from the main Market Square and is a centuries old hotspot where rosaries were once sold on the street. Today your perfect view awaits any time of day or night – rain, hail or shine.
Groenerei is another perfect spot to snap some Instagram worthy shots but really, there are no bad views of these charming waterways.
1. Eat Chocolate
Chocolate anyone? The answer is always yes! And Belgium is famous for it’s chocolate so who can resist?
After all the fresh air and boat rides, take a trip to the chocolate museum and indulge in a tour to round out the experience. Choco-Story emerges you in the 4,000 year history of chocolate and rounds it all out with the scents and tantalizing tastes associated with that little treat behind which is so much passion!
The museum and chocolatier is part of a family owned tradition, located in the 16th Century Huis de Crone building, originally a wine tavern but also used previously as a bakery and furniture shop.
Afterwards, buy yourself enough chocolate to savor and sit in a park and do just that because next Friday night when the Belgian beer is once again making everything a bit blurry, the memory of that chocolate WILL bring your experience back into sharp focus!
Good To Know
A four thirty am wake up call on Monday morning to get back on the Eurostar & straight to work is not the best way to start the week. If you have the opportunity, stay a little longer and slow things down a bit more.
Would I Return?
Yes. To take it slow. Swanning (!) around in parks and lazing on canals are not my usual recommendations for sightseeing. But Brugge is so picturesque that you can’t help but want to take it slow, perhaps savoring just one more of those chocolates…
