Auxerre. The name comes out in a sigh of awed appreciation of such a beautiful city and indeed the highlights of Auxerre are the embodiment of French delight. Of all the picturesque places that we have visited across the Haute-Savoie, Côte-d’Or and Burgundy regions of France, this is one of the best.
We arrive in Auxerre late, having spent Christmas morning in Montbard with the day exploring Abbaye de Fontenay stopping for only a quick refreshment at the Fosse Dionne in Tonnerre.
It’s already dark where we arrive in Auxerre but its clear from the outset that this city beautifully intertwines old and new. History is on offer with a twist of the contemporary. The heritage is rich, the architecture stunning and the culture, modern and vibrant.
We arrive at our hotel, Hotel Le Maxime, in a stunning spot overlooking the River Yonne. Unfortunately we’re too tired to walk more tonight and we spend Christmas night enjoying an in room picnic and a hot, languid bath before bed.
The next day, Boxing Day, we set out to explore Auxerre in earnest. This includes
its historic trail with churches, museums and more notable buildings. All this is topped by the stunning Cathedral, visible from near and far.
Later in the evening we enjoy a belated Christmas dinner in cute local with much trouble interpreting the menu. The duck l’orange is memorable. However, first things first…
History
Auxerre’s history dates back to ancient times, with evidence of settlement as early as the Neolithic period. The town was originally known as “Auxerre” during the Roman era, when it served as a significant administrative center. The Romans established the fortified town, complete with a forum, temples and an amphitheater.
During the Middle Ages, Auxerre became a prominent ecclesiastical center. The town was the seat of a bishopric and its influence grew as it became a hub for religious and cultural activities, much thanks to the Saint Étienne Cathedral.
Likewise, the town’s strategic location along the Yonne River brought economic prosperity throughout the centuries, thanks to the vital trade route. Auxerre played a crucial role during the Hundred Years’ War and the Wars of Religion, with its fortified walls providing protection against invasions. The town’s resilience and adaptability have allowed it to preserve its historical charm while evolving into a modern destination.
Saint Étienne Cathedral
Doubtless much of this charm can be attributed to the Saint Étienne Cathedral. The crown jewel of Auxerre’s architectural and religious landscape, this magnificent structure is a testament to the skill of medieval craftsmen. From the outside it’s all elaborate façade and soaring spires. Inside, the stunning stained glass windows are a marvel. No less as some of them date back to the 13th century, depicting biblical scenes and saints in transparent color. The cathedral’s serene atmosphere invites reflection and appreciation of the artistry that has endured through the ages.
Indeed, the construction of the Saint Étienne Cathedral in the 13th century marked a significant architectural achievement, showcasing the Gothic style that would define many of France’s future cathedrals. This cathedral remains a focal point of Auxerre’s well preserved medieval architecture, a feature of the town’s historical narrative.
La Tour de l’Horloge
The town’s historical narrative is continued in its narrow cobblestone streets, lined with half-timbered houses, many of which date back to the 15th and 16th centuries. A stroll through the old town reveals the charming facades and intricate details that tell the story of Auxerre’s past.
Nowhere is this past more present than standing in front of the La Tour de l’Horloge, the iconic tower being a symbol of Auxerre and offering further glimpses into the town’s medieval past.
This golden, spire-topped clock tower was built in 1483 as part of the city’s fortifications. On the intricate clock faces of this 17th-century work of astronomical art, the sun-hand indicates the time of day whilst the moon-hand shows the day of the lunar month.
Colombage Houses
This half-timbering or pans de bois in French, is a construction style using strong timber foundations and supports, infilled with plaster or masonry such as brick. The style is synonymous with the Middle Ages although it can be dated back to the Neolithic period. From the 17th century onwards, the facades were plastered to comply with regulations to reduce fires and to improve appearance. Indeed, it is this appearance that enamors us with so many towns in Europe and the UK that have preserved this architectural heritage.
The appearance of this house style scattered around town, with cobblestones leading the way in between, is almost enough to lead me to expect a dirty bucket of laundry water out a window at any moment.
Dirty laundry water or no, the range of colombage houses here are certainly a highlight of Auxerre.
The Yonne
Just as the Yonne River fed Auxerre’s economy throughout the centuries, today it feeds the town’s leisure activities. Walks along the riverbanks in spring, taking in scenic views over an unhurried lunch or early aperitif in summer, or snuggling in with a view of the water and a hot chocolate in winter. The Yonne River has something for everyone. No longer a port in the sense of trade, the waterway now gives back simply by being there. Reflections of the cathedral and city lights in its dark waters only making it more beautiful by simply existing.
Abbey of Saint-Germain
Not one to pass up a monastery, another notable site is the Abbey of Saint-Germain. This former Benedictine monastery was founded in the 9th century. Now it houses a remarkable collection of Romanesque and Gothic architecture, including the crypt, which is one of the oldest in France. The abbey’s tranquil gardens provide a peaceful retreat, allowing an immersion into the history of this sacred space. Alas, today it’s too cold to linger and whilst appreciating the abbey’s remarkable Romanesque architecture and an impressive collection of artifacts, including ancient manuscripts and relics, it’s time to find somewhere warm.
Gastronomy
Auxerre is not only a town steeped in history but also a vibrant cultural hub in which gastronomy plays a huge part.
Known for its culinary delights, including regional specialties such as escargots de Bourgogne and coq au vin, fresh produce is easy to find. Bustling local markets, where the freshest of ingredients including artisanal cheeses and local wines are available. Annual festivals and events further celebrate the town’s produce, heritage and community. The Fête de la Saint-Vincent, held in January, honors the patron saint of winemakers. It also serves to show the region’s renowned Burgundy wines. At that time of year wine tastings, local cuisine and traditional music come together to create an immersive experience.
For now, dining in one of Auxerre’s charming bistros still offers a chance to savor the flavors of Burgundy. Enjoying the picturesque surroundings and getting warm after a long day of walking are an added bonus.
We settle into a table for two at the Restaurant Le Saint Etienne intent on savoring some of Burgundy’s finest. Certainly a decent red and the local plat du jour, duck l’orange, will warm the cockles.
After a hearty mean we wander some more before returning to our hotel by the Yonne.
Natural Beauty
Hard to believe that beyond its historical, cultural and gastronomic attractions, stunning natural landscapes also bless Auxerre. The Yonne River meanders through the town, providing opportunities for leisurely walks along its banks. The nearby vineyards and rolling hills of Burgundy invite exploration in the warmer months through hiking, cycling and wine tours.. During these more chilly months, witnessing the region’s natural beauty is enough to enhance the travel experience.
The sights are a feat for the eyes as well as the soul. The food a feast for the soul as much as the tastebuds. The highlights of Auxerre offering historical, cultural, gastronomical and natural delights, make Auxerre a delightful destination any time of the year.
Good To Know
Auxerre is a town that captivates the hearts of travelers with its rich history, architectural wonders and vibrant culture. From the majestic Saint Étienne Cathedral to the charming streets lined with medieval houses, every corner of Auxerre tells a story. The town’s ability to preserve its heritage while embracing modernity makes it a unique destination for those, like myself, who seek and appreciate this interplay of travel and history. Whether you are wandering through its historic sites, indulging in local cuisine, or exploring the surrounding landscapes, Auxerre promises an unforgettable journey through time. As you plan your next adventure, consider adding Auxerre to your itinerary—a place where history comes alive and travel becomes a meaningful exploration of the past.
Would I Return?
Yes.
