Christmas in Montbard promises a quaint town which transforms into a picturesque winter wonderland with its cobblestone streets and charming medieval architecture adorned with festive lights and decorations. They cast a warm glow against the crisp, frosty air.
Arriving on Christmas Eve, the scent of roasted chestnuts and mulled wine wafts through the town as a few remaining locals enjoy the holiday markets, where handcrafted ornaments and seasonal treats are on display. By now, however, most are home celebrating already and the markets are almost finished. It is Christmas Eve after all.
We find some provisions and take them back to our hotel for a Christmas picnic. It’s a very different Christmas to the big family affair that is just winding up at home. In Australia it’s summer time and everyone will have been out on the deck at my Uncle’s, Santa arriving for the little ones. After gifts, another round of celebratory drinks before getting home in time for Santa to arrive again.
After our meal we snuggle in and await midnight mass. Just before midnight, we head over to Christmas mass in the Église Saint-Urse (Saint Urse Church). I admit this played out much better in my head.
It’s absolutely freezing and inside the church is little warmer than outside. The mass is in French – perhaps obvious, but not a factor that I had previously considered. And while the other patrons smile and nod at us, we don’t speak French and don’t know anyone so it’s perhaps not as inviting as I may have imagined.
The next morning we wake up to a proper winter wonderland and head back to church to explore the frozen lake. Jason is much more adventurous that I, risking actually standing on the (actually not so thin) ice. I am slightly more tentative.
The town’s beautiful historic church stands majestically amidst the frosty morning and adds a touch of old-world charm to the quiet morning. When choosing Montbard for Christmas, it was described as having a festive atmosphere with celebrations marked by a sense of community and tradition. A picture of carolers singing timeless songs and small cafes serving hearty French fare. A peaceful ambiance and scenic beauty adding to the perfect destination for those seeking a serene and charming Christmas experience.
It is most certainly serene and charming. However, as a Christmas experience, I’m altogether underwhelmed. Whether it’s a feeling of homesickness descended, a distinct case of high expectations or something else doesn’t really matter. We make the most of the time but without (more) family (at least we have each other!), Christmas in Montbard hasn’t really felt like Christmas at all.
Good To Know
This is a very cute little town and its proximity to the Abbaye de Fontenay makes it worth a visit. However, Christmas here was cold and, given it is a time for family, a trifle uninviting. I missed home today.
Would I Return?
Yes. Perhaps in warmer months.
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