We take a delightful country drive to Abbaye de Fontenay after spending a quiet Christmas in Montbard. Nestled in the frosty hills, the Abbaye du Fontenay is a remarkably preserved example of Cistercian monastic architecture and history. Along with The Cloisters in New York, Abbaye de Fontenay will forever be attributed with cementing my ongoing fascination with monasteries. Nevertheless, as we pull up today, I wonder if Christmas Day is a suitable day for a visit. The site is utterly deserted.
History
Founded in 1118 by St. Bernard of Clairvaux, this abbey offers a glimpse into medieval monastic life and has become a symbol of France’s rich religious heritage. St. Bernard was a pivotal figure in the development of the Cistercian Order and his influence instrumental in the establishment of numerous Cistercian monasteries across Europe.
Fontenay Abbey was initially established to serve as a center of spiritual retreat and agricultural innovation, adhering to the Cistercian commitment to simplicity and self-sufficiency.
In its early years, it thrived as a religious community and agricultural hub. The monks were well regarded for their expertise in water management and farming techniques, which were critical to their self-sustaining way of life. They constructed an extensive system of canals and ponds to support their agricultural activities, including the cultivation of vineyards and the breeding of fish.
During the turbulent years of the Hundred Years’ War (1337 – 1453) and the Wars of Religion (1562 – 98), Fontenay, like many religious institutions in France, faced challenges. Despite these adversities, the abbey managed to maintain its religious and economic functions, largely due to its strong internal organisation and the support of local patrons.
St. Bernard himself was an abbot, a mystic and co-founder of the Knights Templar. He travelled widely and was a friend of nobility and the Pope, being born of Burgundian nobility himself. This helped him in his scholastic pursuits earlier in life and no doubt his lineage helped greatly in his quasi political administrative services to Pope Innocent and various bishops, dukes and other powerful players of the time.
The Abbey
Abbaye du Fontenay itself is celebrated for its exceptionally well-preserved Cistercian architecture embodying the ideals of simplicity and functionality. The church, with its striking Romanesque architecture, is characterized by its austere interior and harmonious proportions, reflecting the monastic values of humility and devotion.
One of the most notable features of the abbey is its cloister, a quintessential element of Cistercian design. The cloister’s tranquil garden and elegantly simple arcade provide a space for meditation and communal reflection. The monks’ dormitory and the refectory also showcase the functional and modest style of Cistercian architecture, with their straightforward, unadorned designs that emphasize practicality over ornamentation.
Despite the simplicity the buildings and the spaces remain stunningly beautiful and deeply moving. There is a sense of silent connection to the past when pausing for a moment in the frosty, deserted cloister. Likewise the gardens are peaceful and reflective.
The abbey’s well-preserved medieval watermill is another significant feature. The watermill, used for grinding grain, highlights the Cistercians’ innovative approach to sustainable agriculture and resource management. The entirety of the abbey and grounds are a testament to the monks’ skills and deeply religious approach to life.
History in Modernity
Because of the authenticity of the site, Abbaye du Fontenay holds a significant place in both historical scholarship and cultural tourism. It is one of the few Cistercian abbeys to remain largely intact. This offers a rare opportunity to experience a sense of the monastic life of the Middle Ages. The abbey’s current designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site (since 1981) underscores its importance and contribution to the understanding of medieval monasticism.
Due to its historical significance and modern popularity, the ongoing efforts of preservation of Abbaye du Fontenay is a testament to the safeguarding of the landmark. Conservation initiatives aim to maintain the structural integrity of the sight, along with its authenticity. Although there is no evidence of during our visit, the efforts include meticulous restoration projects and regular maintenance. The implementation of measures to manage foot traffic and the impact of tourism are also in place.
Good To Know
Abbaye du Fontenay is simply stunning. Its historical significance, architectural beauty and role in French culture make this site both a historic and deeply reflective experience. As we leave the Abbey behind us, headed to Auxerre, I consider that perhaps Christmas Day was a particularly suitable time to visit after all.
Would I Return?
Yes.
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