We arrive in Dijon and it’s already dark. Of my top 5 things to do in Dijon, the Christmas markets are high on the list and we head out to discover the old town’s Christmas charm.
Christmas Markets
Having arrived here from Beaune today, we’re still in the heart of France’s Burgundy region. Wine and food isn’t just for Christmas, these are year round priorities. Along with the evening shopping, we stop to eat crepes, thin French pancakes, perfect for any time of the day or night.
It certainly is charming. Despite the chilly winter’s night, the town has a festive atmosphere. Last minute Christmas shopping, decorations in streets and windows, families with parcels and bags of gifts. The air is filled with the scent of cinnamon and spices, hot cups of mulled wine are being ladelled on street corners, paper cones of fresh roasted chestnuts sit with vendors ready to be enjoyed. We soak in the atmosphere and our share of treats before we’re too tired to walk any more.
Cobbled Streets
The next day is Christmas Eve. We wake to the pale morning light, frost crowning the roofs across to the dome of St Anne’s Church (Église Sainte-Anne). Bracing myself for more cold, we eventually head out for another walk to enjoying Dijon’s old town, take in a museum or two and perhaps consider some more markets and those most beautiful of European Christmas decorations.
I love these old cobbled streets. Walking through more than 5 things to do in Dijon, here we have grand historic architecture, shops, restaurants and of course cobblestones that twist your ankles but warm your soul. You can’t miss these streets when you visit Dijon and the streets around Rue Verrerie (Glass Street) are some of the best.
This particular pedestrian street sends you back in time to when the city was a bustling medieval metropolis. Originally known as the street to buy pigs, the street names inevitably changed over the years to reflect the relevant commercial activities. This street no longer refers to pigs, textiles or other processing but has settled on glassworks, a charming product, if not very glamorous occupation. The presence of glassmakers’ workshops inevitably influenced this name and walking along Rue Verrerie, the buildings are straight out of a history book. All stone structures, exposed wooden facades and wrought iron embellishments.
Hôtel de Vogüé
The Hôtel de Vogüé and the Hôtel Bénigne Malyon are just some of the notable buildings that line the charming Rue de la Chouette.
The richly decorated Hôtel de Vogüé was built as a private mansion in 1589. The construction took place across the site formerly occupied by three houses, all purchased by parliamentary advisor, Jean Bouhier, for the purpose. He and his son, who later inherited the house, loved both art and architecture. The name, Hôtel de Vogüé, was adopted later, in 1766 when a Bouhier daughter married Count Cerice-Francois Melchiror de Vogüé.
Today, the building is owned by the City of Dijon and, somewhat disappointingly, houses the city’s human resources department. The glazed Burgundy roof tiles make it easily identifiable on a walk around town.
Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy
Nearby, and far up the list of 5 things to do in Dijon, is the beautiful palace of the Dukes of Burgundy (Palais des Ducs et des États de Bourgogne).
Behind the gorgeously symmetrical façade, the Palace of the Dukes and States of Burgundy both contains and reveals several centuries of history.
The complex includes the former ducal residence (east) and the palace of the States of Burgundy (west). The ducal residence had been rebuilt in the 15th century under Philip the Good and later became the residence of the king and the governor of the province from the 16th century. The palace of the States of Burgundy was built from the 17th century.
The buildings front onto the Place Royale, the large square in front of the palace (also Place de la Libération). Under the direction of Jules Hardouin-Mansart, the king’s first architect, the building facades were unified to create the palace’s present day appearance. Now they focus on the main courtyard and the square and are framed by two additional courtyards – the Cour de Flore and the Cour de Bar. The amalgamated facades along with the sheer size of the complex serves as a reminder of the power these Dukes and nobles once wielded over the city.
The palace now houses the town hall, the fine arts museum, the municipal archives and the tourist office.
Owl Sculpture
The charming little owl sculpture near the Church of Notre-Dame, symbolizes Dijon’s rich historical and cultural heritage. This owl is the city’s unofficial talisman.
Sitting high on an otherwise unremarkable wall, touch him and your wish will come true.
Perhaps more so than the hope of a wish granted it’s the story behind this tale that is intriguing. As the legend goes, a priest and others claimed to have seen a ghost haunt the Church of our Lady. This takes place in the year 1677, and since then, the inhabitants of Dijon began to touch the owl. Be sure to reach for the owl with your left hand whilst making a cross sign with the right. The little owl wards off evil spirits and rewards you with a wish!
Our Dijon detour is most certainly over too quickly. No sooner have we started discovering this intriguing city than it’s time to leave. As we set out on our drive to Montbard, I gaze back towards Dijon. I’m wondering whether the little owl is watching over me and if my wish to return will be granted soon.
Good To Know
There are more than 5 things to do in Dijon and one night certainly is not enough!
Would I Return?
Yes.