Arriving in Annecy by train from Chamonix, we set out to explore the past and present of France’s Venice of the Alps. This extraordinarily picturesque city is nestled in the Haute-Savoie region of southeastern France. With its charming canals, stunning lakeside views, and well-preserved historical architecture, Annecy offers a rich tapestry of history, culture and gastronomy.
A Brief History
Like much of the region, the origins of Annecy trace back to ancient times. The town’s location at the foot of the Alps and near the shores of Lake Annecy made it a strategic point for various cultures over the centuries. The area was first settled by the Celts and later came under Roman influence. During the Roman period, Annecy was known as Aniciacum, evolving over time into its present name.
During the Middle Ages, Annecy emerged as a significant regional center. In the 12th century, the town was under the control of the powerful House of Savoy. The Savoyards, seeking to solidify their influence, developed Annecy into a prominent administrative and commercial hub. The 13th century marked the construction of the Château d’Annecy, a fortress that became the residence of the Counts of Savoy. This period, along with the existence and significance of the Château, laid the foundation for Annecy’s architectural and cultural development.
The Renaissance era brought further prosperity to Annecy. The town grew into a city, becoming a center for art and learning, particularly under the influence of the Catholic Church. In the 16th century, Annecy played a pivotal role in the Counter Reformation, thanks to the presence of Saint Francis de Sales, a key figure in the Catholic Reformation. The city was a site of religious significance, attracting pilgrims and scholars.
The 19th century saw Annecy undergo modernization, with the development of infrastructure and the expansion of its economy. However, despite these changes, the city has preserved its historical charm. This is evident in its old world elegance evident at every corner and, at this time of year, in every shop.
Highlights of the Old Town
Annecy’s old town is a treasure trove of historical and architectural marvels. Its narrow cobblestone streets, colorful buildings, and scenic canals create a fairytale-like atmosphere. Apart from general wandering, here are some of the must see highlights:
Château d’Annecy
Through the arched walkway, dominating the skyline of Annecy, the Château d’Annecy is a symbol of the city’s historical significance. As mentioned, the 12th century castle served as the residence of the Counts of Savoy. Over the centuries, it underwent various modifications and expansions and today it houses a museum. The exhibits offer a glimpse into Annecy’s past in the areas of regional art, archaeology and history. The castle’s ramparts provide panoramic views of the city and Lake Annecy, making it a popular spot to pause for a photo and reflection.
Palais de l’Isle
Often considered one of the most photographed landmarks in Annecy, the Palais de l’Isle is a striking medieval building located on an island in the Thiou River. Like the Chateau, it was constructed in the 12th century and has served various purposes over the years, including as a prison, courthouse, and administrative center. Its distinctive triangular shape and well-preserved facade make it an iconic symbol of Annecy. Today, it hosts a museum dedicated to the city’s history and heritage.
Notre Dame de Liesse
The Notre Dame de Liesse Church is a beautiful example of Gothic architecture. Located in the heart of Annecy’s old town, this 15th-century church features intricate stained glass windows, a richly decorated altar, and a serene atmosphere. It reflects the city’s religious history and serves as a peaceful retreat amidst the bustling streets.
Cathedral Saint Pierre
The Saint-Pierre Cathedral is another significant religious site in Annecy. Originally built in the 16th century on the site of an earlier church, the cathedral exhibits a mix of Gothic and Renaissance architectural styles. Its interior boasts an impressive wooden ceiling, ornate chapels, and a remarkable organ. The cathedral also serves as the seat of the Diocese of Annecy, underscoring the city’s continuing importance in religion and the Catholic tradition, in particular.
Canals & Lake Annecy
One of the defining features of Annecy is its network of canals that traverse the old town, earning it the nickname Venice of the Alps. These canals, along with the picturesque Lake Annecy, create a stunning backdrop for leisurely strolls and boat rides. The clear, turquoise waters of the lake reflect the surrounding alpine landscape, offering chilly but breathtaking views. The canals are lined with charming houses and cafes, enhancing the city’s romantic ambiance with their warm glow in winter and floral window boxes in summer.
Pont des Amours (Bridge of Love)
A popular spot for couples, and we are not above the crowd, the Bridge of Love is charming for pedestrians. It crosses the Canal du Vassé and, as the name suggests, reflects the tradition of lovers attaching padlocks to the bridge’s railings as a symbol of their enduring affection. The bridge offers beautiful views of Lake Annecy and the surrounding mountains and should not be overlooked as a perfect place to pause for a kiss.
Rue Sainte Claire and the Market
Rue Sainte Claire is one of the main streets in Annecy’s old town. It’s lined with vibrant shops, cafes and historical buildings. It is also home to the city’s traditional market, which operates several times a week. There is plenty of fresh produce, artisanal goods and regional specialties on offer, even in the off season. The market adds to the lively atmosphere of the old town and provides a taste of Annecy’s culinary delights.
The markets culinary delights also feed into the city’s gastronomic culture. For a population of around 52,000 inhabitants, there are an incredible number of restaurants, cafes and brasseries.
Good To Know
We might have come for Annecy’s blend of historical depth and architectural splendor. This is exemplified in the crowning glory of the Chateau de Annecy. However, Annecy is also a unique destination for its mix of medieval origins, the pivotal role it played in the Counter Reformation and its modern-day charm. The old town, with its iconic landmarks, scenic canals and vibrant streets, provides an opportunity for endless hours of wandering as well as a glimpse into the past and present of this enchanting alpine city.
In addition to the city itself, there is much to do (in much warmer weather) in nearaby proximity, including sailing, swimming and other water activities on its lake and hiking in the nearby mountains.
Would I Return?
Yes. Plus a visit to nearby Château de Menthon-Saint-Bernard is on my wishlist.