Rovinj

Rovinj is a really pretty little coastal town with a stunning old town and its own personality. The town centre, complete with a picture perfect marina, makes it very popular with tourists.  Even at this time of year, just past the peak of summer, when the weather (or at least the water!) is slightly cooler, there are still a lot of holiday makers.

Having said that, the tour operators are winding down and restaurants are much quieter than would otherwise be the case. The beaches are less crowded (the water a few degrees cooler already) and you can tell the locals are tiring, just about ready to reclaim their town for the offseason.

We arrive in Rovinj, on the Istrian peninsula, around dusk having organised a private room in a home just outside of the old town. We base ourselves here for the last three nights of our Eastern Europe trip.

An evening wander into the old town and I am in heaven. This place is like a fairytale kingdom. The Church of Saint Euphemia crowns the little outcrop that forms the centre of the Stari Grad (old town). The cobblestone street tumble down to the water and the little sailing, fishing and tourist boats bob contentedly on their moorings.

After a bite to eat, we head back to our room. Even a charming town such as this must give way to sleep eventually.

The next morning, we head straight back to the quaint marina for a lazy breakfast. I peer out at the little fishing boats and the slightly larger tour boats, coming in and going out respectively. After breakfast we purchase some provisions for lunch – freshly baked bread, ham, cheese, fruit and a few treats. The we jump on a cruise boat heading into the blue, off to one of the nearby islands for a ‘pause’. 

Otočić Sveti Andrija (Sveti Adriija Island)

The water is calm and we enjoy the short ride out to the island. Once we reach Otočić Sveti Andrija, we are dropped off to swim, picnic and soak up the sun for a few hours.

Another very cute, picturesque and romantic spot, it is also quite remote, needing a transfer from the mainland to get to the small resort here. We choose to remain on the other side of the small bay from the resort. The water is crystal clear and we lay out our mats on the rocks and stretch out in our own space in the sun.

The water is cool and refreshing. The sun is warm but has lost some of its summer strength so the sunny rocks are pleasing after the water. It’s quiet and rather romantic with just ourselves and the quiet lapping of the sea on the rocks.

After a couple of hours, however, we’re hungry and I’m ready for something much softer to lie on than rock. We walk back over to the resort side and unpack our picnic at a table for lunch, watching the water lapping from another angle. I could do this all day.

Jason is itchy for adventure though. Lazing around on rocks, dips in the crystal blue sea and dulcet picnic filled days are not enough for him. He hires a windsurfer for an hour and makes sure he gets his fix of adrenaline in, keeping up Straddie skills. Then, wishing we could stay longer we reluctantly, gather our things and capture a few more photos for our memory bank. Then it’s time to board the boat to return to Rovinj.

Back on the Mainland

One we’re back on the mainland we head back to our accommodation and with a short turnaround, make for the town of Pula in the south for an evening of colosseums and beer. The next day we explore further north on the Istrian Peninsula discovering Porec and Umag.

Back in Rovinj I learn a little of the history of this city. Settled by Illyrian tribes it was later captured by the Romans, Ottomans and a few others before eventually becoming a Venetian port in 1283. This lasted for about 500 years until the fall of Venice after which it became part of the Austrian Empire until World War I, Italy until 1947, then Yugoslavia and the Socialist Federal Republic of Croatia. Since Croatia’s independence in 1991, Rovinj is formally part of modern day Croatia although many of its Italian inhabitants moved away during the latter half of the 20th Century.

With one last meander along the streets of this beautiful town, I wish there was more time. There are so many cute restaurants, as well as little side streets, gelato bars and places for a quiet evening drink out there to discover.

Having barely scratched the surface we treat ourselves to an aperitif at Bar Valentino and gaze out over lights reflecting on the water to bid our farewells. The town has certainly won our hearts.

Good To Know

Rovinj is slightly out of the way if you’re looking at the more popular Split and Dbrovnik. However, the Istrian Peninsula has a lot to offer by way of history, relaxation and charm. Three nights most certainly did not do it justice.

Word of warning though – invest in some wet shoes for swimming off rocks in this part of the world. You will not just save your feet but possibly your head, back, elbows and other parts of your body (those rocks can be slippery!).

Would I Return?

Yes, yes, yes!