There are many words to describe my first impressions of Tbilisi, yet none of them quite capture the vibe of the Old Town or just how excited I am to be here.
It’s still early and I have checked in to the Museum Hotel Orbeliani, dropped my bags and logged in to finalise a few last work emails before the long weekend really sets in. After this I set out, grin fixed firmly as I plunge into Tbilisi Old Town, not getting very far before I stumble across the Clock Tower. It’s about to chime the hour upon which an angel appears to toll the bell the required number of times. There is a crowd gathered and I realise half are waiting to see the clock in motion and the other half have their eyes firmly set on the Russia-Saudi opening match of the 2018 World Cup. Beers firmly fixed in hand they barely glance around when the clock strikes.
I continue along, the words come to mind: pretty; charming; atmospheric; beautiful. But as I said, none of these quite serve to capture the essence of the moment.
The streets are pretty. Window boxes full of flowers and pergolas dripping with grape vines. The grapes form in bunches of little, hard, green things. A few months and thy will be fat and juicy, ready to pick and pop straight in your mouth if they’re not destined for use on a cheese platter or in a bottle of wine.
And yet pretty doesn’t capture the color of the the flowers in the window boxes, the deep summer green of the grape vines and the young vivid green of the grapes. It doesn’t include the little post box set outside the souvenir shop and the vibrant assortment puppets, magnets and potter in the shop windows.
The sights are charming – cobbled streets and tall pencil pines that line the way, set outside stone walls with black wrought iron gates leading into a church yard filled with roses growing in what can only be described as an overgrown county garden. The church bearing witness to the contented stroll of passing foot traffic.
And yet charming doesn’t conjure the bent over nanna covered in black from head to toe diligently sweeping the church steps or the little girls that run out of said church giggling, heads covered in pretty scarves after lighting candles and pressing their fingers to their lips, kisses transferred reverently to a picture of Jesus or some other suitably holy figure.
The whole evening has a buzzing vibe, unless that’s just my excitement bubbling over. The atmosphere is vibrant yet relaxed. Tourists fill the streets and restaurants, locals congregate in groups to talk and catch up, either in clusters on park benches, standing for a few brief words on steps outside shops or more deliberately around little tables with collections of glasses sharing chacha in their restaurants as they watch the rest of us come and go.
And yet atmospheric doesn’t capture the tables set for dinner under the awnings, people browsing for souvenirs, stopping to take photos and checking out menus. It doesn’t tell you there is a cat sitting under the menu stand which is covered in ivy. The cat tilts its head hopefully and gives a little meow. The colors of the paintings hanging along the lane way like a street art gallery, only better.
As I make my way back to the hotel after dinner, the views across the river are beautiful, the sun setting behind the fortress, the tops of the bath houses in the dimming light, the azure of the tiles on the Chreli Abano bath house and the sound of the water trickling down the little stream below.
And yet this doesn’t capture the beauty of the fortress lit against the cobalt of the darkening sky, the silhouettes of the Meteki Church and the King Vakhtang Gorgasali, founding king of Tbilisi, against the night sky and the glow of the lit roof of the Trinity Cathedral as it towers of the town, its gilded roof reflecting the floodlights that make it look even more spectacular at night.
After my walk I take a seat in one of the little restaurants and sit and watch the foot traffic, listening to the occasional cheer coming from the Hangar Bar around the corner as Russia wins the first match of the World Cup. There are a lot of Russians here. I enjoy my eggplant & zucchini goulash and handmade Georgian lemonade. Determined to explore more of the local cuisine tomorrow I make my way back to the hotel.
It’s clean and comfortable but the art deco entrance complete with peacock floor mosaic and a wonderful dining room give it a lovely boutique feel. I drift off to sleep with images of this pretty, charming, atmospheric and beautiful town dancing through my head. And all the extra little details that these four words now conjure.
Good To Know
The Museum Hotel Orbeliani is a 4.5 star hotel just outside of Tbilisi old town limits. It is walking distance to all old town attractions and many of the other attractions Tbilisi has to offer. Taxis are readily available for those further off attractions but be sure to negotiate your fare before hopping in as taxis are not metered.
Would I Return?
Yes!
