We have spent our morning in Doha in the old town and Souq area and then visiting The Pearl. On the way back from the Pearl, we change our minds and decide not to head straight back to the old town and Corniche but to take a dhow ride the rest of the way back – from West Bay to the Dhow Harbour near the Museum of Islamic Art. I am feeling a bit restless. I have lots still to see and the boys have been fairly good up until now but their patience for sightseeing is starting to fade. Our taxi driver is helpful and drops us off right out the front of a string of waiting dhows at the West Bay end of the Corniche.
After negotiating our ride (QAR50) we pause for a quick family shot with West Bay in the background. I think our dhow captain misses the point, he squarely captures the family but the spectacular backdrop of West Bay is, well, not quite captured. We board the dhow and off we go. The day is bright and sunny and the views are great. West Bay slowly fades as we pass other dhows out and about as well as Old Palm Tree Island in the middle of the bay.
My boys are restless. It’s mid afternoon and they’ve been out and about but they’re getting board and are wrestling each other, again. They ignore the sparkling water and the changing vista as the Museum of Islamic Art and the Dhow Harbor come into view.
This is just a short ride. It’s easy to arrange a ride, either from the Dhow Harbor or near the Al Mourjan restaurant on the Cornishe. Negotiate your time/route/price in advance and they’ll take you just about anywhere. There are also lunch and dinner cruises that can be arranged. Today, our ride doesn’t include any extras. I am happy being able to witness the beauty of the city from the water.
As we pull into the Dhow Harbor and disembark along the gang plank, I bid our captain farewell whilst trying to ensure my youngest doesn’t end up in the water. We’re safe back on land and I’m keen to explore some more so I take off on foot while my husband takes the restless children to the park next to the Museum to let off some steam.
There is still much more to see. I walk back along the Corniche, past the Pearl Monument and cross over Corniche Road to walk up next to the Amiri Diwan of Qatar. The Amiri Diwan is an imposing building housing the offices of the Amir (or Emir, essentially the King or Sheikh), the Crown Prince, Prime Minister and other Ministers. Although the building constitutes a government complex which is administrative in nature, it is also a ceremonial and symbolic centre of the State. Despite the lack of gates or other deterrents, do not expect to get too close. I walked past it on the street (footpath) and although I didn’t step on to the grass I was still hurried on by stationed security.
It’s worth a look though, as is the clock tower, which, upon closer inspection has Arabic numerals on the face. The third building on this hill is the Grand Mosque although, like the Diwan, don’t expect to get too close. I continue on up the street, keen to see the Fort. On approach I realise how close we were to here this morning, it’s right next to Souq Waqif. It is, however, unsurprising that we missed Al Khoot Fort. An abandoned shell of a building there is, unfortunately not much to see here. It’s a shame as the fort could easily be utilised within the souq complex.
I continue on, eager to discover an historic building which is located just around the corner. However, just on past the fort, I cross the road and am clearly out of the tourist area. Not usually deterred by being off the beaten track, here I get an uneasy feeling and turn back towards the souq where the afternoon crowds are gathered. I pass through the streets and grab another karak tea and a couple of souvenirs before making my way back to the Museum of Islamic Art.
I seem to have missed the Msheireb Museums, four restored historic houses including Radwani House. I also cannot seem to find the falcon souq, despite having asked for directions a few times and I give up on the old well, only realising later that I walked right past it, just outside of Souq Waqif. Nothing is well signposted.
I pop back out on the Corniche near the Water Jar Monument and pause for a picture in the afternoon light. Then I make my way up to the Museum of Islamic Art.
It’s an imposing building and reminds me of the National Gallery of Australia (NGA) with its high cement walls and paved approach. I enter and realise how much more modern this building is inside. The architecture is stunning and the atrium ceiling alone is worth a quick peek.
By this stage it’s getting on in the afternoon and I don’t have nearly as much time to explore the Museum as I had planned. After a quick look around the entrance and central atrium I take the stairs to the galleries on the second level. I have to be picky so I just choose two and launch in.
There are all sorts of artifacts – jewelry, pottery, sculptures, carpets and coins. The tiles and mosaics are spectacular. I glance at my gallery map in some dismay, there is so much more! I have to be content for now so I wrap up with one more longing look up to the third floor I make my peace with what I have been able to accomplish and depart, taking a brisk walk back to the entrance to the Port where the shuttle buses await departure for the cruise terminal.
Jason & the boys are already on the bus and give me a surprise – I really thought they would have been back on the boat hours ago. Contrary to this, they have also been having a marvelous afternoon in Doha, spending their time in MIA Park where there is ample grass to run around on, hills to roll down and a huge playground. I guess their restlessness of early afternoon just needed a suitable outlet.
Would I Return?
Yes. I would return to Doha and certainly the Museum of Islamic Art is worth another visit.