The day is crystal clear as we approach Mykonos old town on our hired moped. We find a park and walk into the vehicle free Old Port area from the North along Polykandrioti (a street named after Thanasis Polykandriotis, a Greek musician). It’s windy and the little waves whip along the shoreline.
I’m hungry from a morning exploring the beach and coastline and I smile as the perfect spot for lunch appears just around the bend and right on time. I have been known for continuing to seek the perfect spot to stop to the point of exhaustion. No need today. Kavos is heaving, along with all the other restaurants, cafes and bars. People are out in force to explore or be seen, a mixture of chic European holiday makers reveling in the sunshine, day trippers and fashionistas strutting their stuff with selfies being snapped on every corner. The vibe is one of excitement and relaxed expectation, rather than bustling tourism and we’re shown to our table with a friendly smile. Greek hospitality surpassing the crowds.
Lunch is delicious. I order a traditional Greek gyros – vertical spit (known as gyro) roasted meat which is served in pita bread with onions, lettuce, tomato, potato chips and sauce, mine is tzatziki. My husband’s is delicious too and I have a sip or two of his enormous beer, doubting my ability for further Chora (aka Mykonos Town) exploration if I was to drink one on my own.
Lunch done, it’s time to walk. Much to my husband’s dismay I fall into the 6am wake up travelers i.e. I’m the one that will wake you at 6am shouting “get up! There’s so much to see!”. I want to do EVERYTHING while I have the chance and have been known to plan down to when and where coffee stops will be, trying to fit way too much into each day. Over the years we have come to a compromise around this but today he is being affable, going along with my advanced research and pre-designed itinerary.
We head out around the Old Port to Agios Nikolaos Church. The day is bright but the wind is wild and whipping up waves that would otherwise not exist. So much so that many of the restaurants and some of the shops right along the esplanade are closing or taking things inside to avoid damage. We don’t mind though and continue along to Paraportiani Orthodox Church.
I’m disappointed that the church is closed, perhaps for good reason as it looks like a wedding is imminent from the suitably attired congregation outside. I take a few snaps and we continue, plunging into the maze of streets to get ourselves lost a little. It’s stunning. The geometric white washed buildings juxtaposed against the grey street stones, the blue of the sky and splashes of pink bougainvillea make me feel like I’m floating through a dream.
Mykonos oozes glamour and the cobble stone streets cheerfully flaunt chic bars, art galleries and expensive boutiques alongside shops of more affordable souvenirs, clothing and jewelry. I choose a little clay thimble with traditional ancient Greek looking markings for my mum to add to her collection and happily pore over several canvases and dresses for myself.
Agia anna Church
I have built some wandering time into the itinerary so we let ourselves deviate into little nooks and crannies and find some treasure troves of shops, souvenirs and views. After a while we stumble upon the facade of the tiny Agia Anna Church on the northern end of town and turn back (as is in the plan) to head towards the windmills (Kato Mili) with more breathtaking streets scenes along the way. One thing I couldn’t have planned for is the views and how captivating this town is. Â
A little more wandering and we find ourselves with glimpses of the shimmering sea, a sure sight that we’ve found Little Venice. Sure enough, I duck into an innocent looking shop only to behold an absolutely striking view of the windmills. Excited I surge along the street, nearly missing the peaceful surrender of the Katholiki Ekklisia Panagia tou Rοdariou (the Catholic Virgin of St. Rosary Church) and the Metropolitain Church which practically sit side by side.
Metropolitan Church (side view)
We round a corner and are suddenly out of the maze, faced with a dazzling first glimpse of Kato Mili, the famous windmills of Mykonos. The windmills, alongside views of whitewashed buildings topped by blue domes, are the most iconic sights of the Greek Islands.
A set of stone steps takes us up the steep slope and away from Little Venice and then behold, we are right at the base of the windmills.
It’s not just the windmills, the views of Little Venice and Chora are delightful and I pause to capture images of it all. Finally, we descend the stone steps again and stop in at Rapshodia Bar for a coffee before plunging back in to the maze to enjoy a little more shopping and soak up the atmosphere.
Last glimpses of Kato Mili
Then it’s time to wander back and return the moped, my husband does one last ride up the steep slope for views of the bay and the town from afar. What a sight to behold.
Would I return?
Yes. Both Mykonos Town (Chora) and Mykonos island are worth exploring in detail. In addition to the sights mentioned here are some 10 villages as well as plentiful beaches, a maritime museum, an archaeological museum and numerous churches to explore.
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